Day 3

Saturday November 24, 2007

Trying to find quiet time is a bit of challenge. The girls age five and seven have been handling the time change and packed schedule we have well, but, still they are young and needy and we are all sharing the same space. For me this is the ultimate test of doting aunty-hood.

Today we spent the morning at the kite factory. The name certainly conjures up images of steel and smoke stacks and loads of workers when it fact it was a tiny house in an old hutong. Just getting there was an adventure. Once we pulled off the main streets of Beijing we were faced with tiny narrow alley ways. Everything around here is under construction in anticipation of the Olympics and this hutong was no exception. Rubble, steel, and workers filled the tiny lanes. Once our Van disengorged us to the fascination of the many, many bystanders. The local bicycle taxis insisted that Marg and her daughters ride to the kite factory. They dutifully loaded her up while Mari and I followed pushing the wheel chair. We picked our way amongst the construction rubble, past traditionally built grey buildings. I am told all buildings are grey as no other colour was permitted except in the Forbidden City. The tiny lane was crowded with bicycle taxis, bicycle garbage collectors, dogs, people and a few unwise small cars.

The kite maker was a fascinating individual who proudly showed us his craft. It was inspiring to see his work and almost impossible to describe the care and detail that goes into these special kites built on bamboo frames with hand painted silk and nylon skins. The kites represented animals and mythical creatures and many of them were so well designed that they could fly without wind. I bought an “expensive” dragon for Duncan as I was so entranced by its beauty. I spent 200 wan or less than $30Can.

The girls were not as intrigued by the kite maker’s workmanship but were as enthralled as we were by the finished products. They were presented with two unfinished kites to complete themselves when they return to Canada. On our way out we all walked through the alleyways of the hutong attracting stares and causing people to walk backwards as they tried to take in the strange sight of Marg in her wheelchair accompanied by two obviously Chinese children. I have to say that I have intentionally hung back behind them in our walks as observing the local reaction to this spectacle is quite amazing. I have tried to catch it on camera but when I am noticed the people quickly look away.

The highlight today so far has been our lunch experience. Determined to eat locally we left the hotel in search of a smaller cheaper restaurant where we could have Dim Sum. We eventually found a busy lunch spot that was not unlike those fast food joints of North America in decor. We boldly entered trying not to notice the patrons sudden halt in eating as they stared open mouthed at us. Fortunately the menu had pictures and I just pointed and the waitress tried to nonchalantly write down our order. Lunch arrived and again our fellow diners stopped and stared to see what we would do with it. Marg and I unwrapped our chopsticks and began eating while the girls wrestled with soup spoons, fingers and noodles. The neighbouring table did not even attempt to contain their giggles as they watched the “round eyes” with their strange Chinese children eat like heathens. I am not sure who got more entertainment value out of the lunch. I certainly enjoyed it!

The people here are genuinely friendly and often try to speak to us, assuming that the girls speak Chinese. They are eager to help and happily lift Marg up and down stairs while she bravely hangs on and smiles as they tip her cheerfully in some pretty hair raising angles. The staring is done openly and if I walk with the girls alone I receive only a passing glance but the four of us raise many questions. We are often asked what Marg and my relationship is as two women together is inappropriate for this culture. The concept of cousins is hard to explain but once the inquirer realizes that we share the same grandmother they are obviously relieved. Still, I am usually ignored while Marg and the girls are enveloped in friendly discourse. In many ways taking a back seat has given me an opportunity to observe the interactions between two cultures in a way that I might not have seen if I had been traveling with my own family. I certainly have managed to get some interesting pictures by trailing well behind the Lawson/Barker trio and just watching the effect they have on their surroundings.

This afternoon we are off to the Silk Market. I am looking forward to it as I hope to pick up some Christmas gifts and I really enjoy bartering. Being here makes me miss the ex-pat life. I must make the most of this opportunity before I head back to the routine of Flesherton life.