I am beginning to feel like I belong here. Of course I do, as Marg puts it, look like an Amazon amongst these women. When I walk down the street alone, people come up to me and measure themselves as discretely as they can, against me. It is not intimidating though. I feel quite safe and have found all of my interactions with the Chinese people to be pleasant.
Our drive back from Chen Zhou was considerably quicker than the drive there, even with the overturned cement truck on the highway. I guess I am getting used to the perma-smog and the shells of houses that people live in because as I gazed out the window during the four and a half hour drive I saw much more beauty than I saw before. There were people out working their tiny plots of land, cohabitating with the cattle and oxen. The rice paddies were often filled with white ducks and the odd pig and dog stood serenely. It was pastoral in a hazy sort of crowded way.
Upon return to Chang Sha I made a visit to the pharmacy with our guide in tow. I brought the medicine I needed to refill, but the drug was not in my interpreters lexicon and no amount of charades could explain it. We were just about to give up when the pharmacist brought out the Chinese version of the pharmacology handbook. Fortunately each drug was also spelled out in English and after much page flipping a persistence we found it. Smiles of relief were everywhere. It turned out that the drug must be prescribed by the hospital but after the determination to find it the pharmacist decided that since I was a foreigner he could give it to me anyway. Phew!
I then went on a walk alone down the streets of Chang Sha to look in shop windows and feel a part of daily life. The smells coming from the carts filled with "snacks" was mouth watering. Crossing the street was an adventure as pedestrians do not have right of way and no one stops at signals anyway. I did make it eventually. I went into a couple of book stores but was unable to find anything I wanted to buy. I did find a Chinese English book that explained common phrases like what to say if you walk in the ladies washroom by accident or if you bump into someone "Get out of my way - you jerk". I couldn't help but laugh, but decided to put the book down as I was attracting attention to myself. The thing that impressed me most about the bookstore was all of the people sitting everywhere reading, reading, reading. On my walk back I stopped into a couple of small shops to buy little things. The young shop keepers were delighted to practise their English on me. I was greatly relieved that some of the prices they quoted me were in fact, lost in translation!! Thank goodness for calculators.
We are off for another test of Szechwaun. I am hoping that both Marg and I fare better this time!!
Friday, November 30, 2007
Wednesday, November 28, 2007
Day 8 - Chen Zhou Orphanage
I woke later than usual this morning. I think that I have finally adjusted to the time change, but then it may be that I actually slept in a bed for the first time in eight days. The window from my room looks out on the central square. At 7:00am they were people running races around the circle, practising Tai Chi in the centre, exercising and sitting. A few minutes later the square was filled with soldiers all practising their precision marching. They painstakingly slowly lift there straight leg, pause in the air, slam it down and then repeat with the next leg. It was quite a sight. Today we are going to Sophie's orphanage.
She has put on her Chinese silk dress that I bought for her at the embroidery museum in Chang Sha. She looks like a miniature Geisha girl (wrong country I know). We drive slowly through moderately heavy traffic - clear sailing compared to all of our other drives. Our driver confidently drives up a steep narrow road with less than a hand's width of space on either side of our vehicle. Pedestrian dive into narrow alleys as we make our way up. He turns sharply and I hold my breath, but it was unnecessary as we have entered the courtyard of the orphanage. It is lovely filled with date palms and other sub-tropical plants waiting until spring to flower. The balconies around the courtyard are filled with Nannies.
Our visit was singularly wonderful. We were shown freely throughout the orphanage where we met many happy, playing children and their nannies. The ratio of Nanny to child looked to be about one to two or possibly one to three. There were special needs children but they were integrated with the "normal" children and were all engaged in some form of stimulation. Unlike the other orphanage we were allowed, no invited to take pictures and film everything. Sophie found the bed that she had slept in and was thrilled. The girls played with the children. It was a most positive experience and I found myself thinking about adopting a child from this orphanage as they were so clearly well loved and cared for.
After our tour and exchange of gifts we were taken to a lovely lake park for lunch by the directors and office staff. There was a steep bridge, easily 150 stairs high that the office boys cheerfully carried Marg up and over, not once but twice, so that we could see the beautiful park and lake on the other side. The girls and I braved the squat toilets out of desperation - actually we are becoming quite practised at it. And then, it was time for lunch.
The restaurant was tiny and basic. Our room had a Ma Jong table which we just had to try. Marg, Sophie, Isabelle and I sat around the table with a partnered Chinese teacher and began to play. Marg won the first game and I the second and our teachers laughed and shouted and full participated in the game. It was thrilling. The twelve of us were then squashed around a tiny table and treated to the most delicious food that I have ever tasted. Spicey duck, pork with Tarot, tongue numbingly hot green beans, chinese vegetable, and many other mouth watering dishes. The men drank chinese whisky and the women orange pop and tea. Both Marg and I tried the whisky which was fragrant with herbs. Tasty! Toasts were made and it was a thoroughly enjoyable and friendly experience. China may not be a pretty place but the people are wonderfully charming and excellent hosts.
Outside of the restaurant I went to buy some sugar cane for the girls but one of the men beat me to it. The old woman hacked off the course outside with a machete and deftly snapped in two for the girls. After a brief demonstration they were chewing and sucking the sweet juice all the way home. Now they rest and later we will walk through the city. We are the only "round eye, big noses" in town. I look forward to our next adventure.
She has put on her Chinese silk dress that I bought for her at the embroidery museum in Chang Sha. She looks like a miniature Geisha girl (wrong country I know). We drive slowly through moderately heavy traffic - clear sailing compared to all of our other drives. Our driver confidently drives up a steep narrow road with less than a hand's width of space on either side of our vehicle. Pedestrian dive into narrow alleys as we make our way up. He turns sharply and I hold my breath, but it was unnecessary as we have entered the courtyard of the orphanage. It is lovely filled with date palms and other sub-tropical plants waiting until spring to flower. The balconies around the courtyard are filled with Nannies.
Our visit was singularly wonderful. We were shown freely throughout the orphanage where we met many happy, playing children and their nannies. The ratio of Nanny to child looked to be about one to two or possibly one to three. There were special needs children but they were integrated with the "normal" children and were all engaged in some form of stimulation. Unlike the other orphanage we were allowed, no invited to take pictures and film everything. Sophie found the bed that she had slept in and was thrilled. The girls played with the children. It was a most positive experience and I found myself thinking about adopting a child from this orphanage as they were so clearly well loved and cared for.
After our tour and exchange of gifts we were taken to a lovely lake park for lunch by the directors and office staff. There was a steep bridge, easily 150 stairs high that the office boys cheerfully carried Marg up and over, not once but twice, so that we could see the beautiful park and lake on the other side. The girls and I braved the squat toilets out of desperation - actually we are becoming quite practised at it. And then, it was time for lunch.
The restaurant was tiny and basic. Our room had a Ma Jong table which we just had to try. Marg, Sophie, Isabelle and I sat around the table with a partnered Chinese teacher and began to play. Marg won the first game and I the second and our teachers laughed and shouted and full participated in the game. It was thrilling. The twelve of us were then squashed around a tiny table and treated to the most delicious food that I have ever tasted. Spicey duck, pork with Tarot, tongue numbingly hot green beans, chinese vegetable, and many other mouth watering dishes. The men drank chinese whisky and the women orange pop and tea. Both Marg and I tried the whisky which was fragrant with herbs. Tasty! Toasts were made and it was a thoroughly enjoyable and friendly experience. China may not be a pretty place but the people are wonderfully charming and excellent hosts.
Outside of the restaurant I went to buy some sugar cane for the girls but one of the men beat me to it. The old woman hacked off the course outside with a machete and deftly snapped in two for the girls. After a brief demonstration they were chewing and sucking the sweet juice all the way home. Now they rest and later we will walk through the city. We are the only "round eye, big noses" in town. I look forward to our next adventure.
Day 7 - Chen Zhou
Wednesday November 28, 2007
The drive to Chen Zhou was exciting. Our first task was to exit the city of Changsha, but it seemed that every road leading out of the city was blocked or closed. After an hour of fruitless attempts and driving through the mind numbing turtle pace of the crowded city streets our driver went back to the first road that exited the city and, fortunately, the blockade had been moved. We made it out on our way to what should have been a four hour trip. I had been told that this drive was lovely as it would wend its way through the countryside. I looked and looked for lovely but instead saw the depressing evidence of man’s folly. The impact of overpopulation and pollution was everywhere. The countryside was crowded with old rectangular brick buildings with broken or non existent windows, ruined roofs and the look of emptiness. But, on closer inspection, it was clear that people were living in these buildings as there were clothes lines hanging from the remnants of the balconies and fires burning outside.
There were farmed fields, rice paddies and terraced agriculture. I did see the odd Ox and a few people working the fields. Mostly the fields were being burnt, the acrid smoke adding to the imposing smog that stretched from city to city. I kept waiting as the hours stretched by for the pretty vision that had been described to me. The fields themselves were tiny, no more than a large back yard in a wealthy Toronto neighbourhood. They were neat and well irrigated and green things were growing in them. But countryside? It must have been pretty in the past.
Driving on the highways from Chang Sha, through Zhu Zhou and to Chang Zhou is an exercise in vehicular chicken. Our driver must have nerves of steel as he bullied his way along the two lane highway three abreast with heavy trucks. We passed trucks carrying pigs, goats, donkeys and one with tiny cages packed ten high and about twenty long. At first I couldn’t figure out what the furry things were in these cages, assuming they were some exotic variety of goats. When we later passed a similar stock truck, I took a closer look and realized that eachcage contained a dog destined for the dinner table. We also passed buses that had beds instead of seats. Some of these buses drive for nineteen hours or more. The buses were packed with mothers and children sharing the tiny beds as well as laborers and other travelers. They looked curiously at us in our bus as we tried to get a picture of this unfamiliar sight. What a good idea! We need sleeping busses in Canada.
Before we began our journey this morning we started the day at a popular park and pavilion. It was really fun to see all the people enjoying themselves. Some people were practicing their ballroom dancing, others playing checkers, some performing in musical groups and children were playing with a variety of neat toys that the girls all had an opportunity to try. There were also men making water calligraphy on the sidewalk and they were keen to teach the girls. The people there were as curious about us as we were about them and soon we had crowds of people laughing and smiling as we all tried each other’s activity. After the park it was off to the temple to burn Joss sticks and make a wish. There were 500 Buddhas there and lots of people. I loved the ponds full of Koi and turtles. I can imagine that it is quite pretty in the spring. As it is December the leaves are looking a bit limp and there are few flowers blooming in the single digit weather.
We did make it to Chen Zhou after five and half hours. The city itself is full of lights and seems much more modern and tidy than the other cities we have been to. It is late now so exploring will have to wait until tomorrow. Good night from Chen Zhou.
The drive to Chen Zhou was exciting. Our first task was to exit the city of Changsha, but it seemed that every road leading out of the city was blocked or closed. After an hour of fruitless attempts and driving through the mind numbing turtle pace of the crowded city streets our driver went back to the first road that exited the city and, fortunately, the blockade had been moved. We made it out on our way to what should have been a four hour trip. I had been told that this drive was lovely as it would wend its way through the countryside. I looked and looked for lovely but instead saw the depressing evidence of man’s folly. The impact of overpopulation and pollution was everywhere. The countryside was crowded with old rectangular brick buildings with broken or non existent windows, ruined roofs and the look of emptiness. But, on closer inspection, it was clear that people were living in these buildings as there were clothes lines hanging from the remnants of the balconies and fires burning outside.
There were farmed fields, rice paddies and terraced agriculture. I did see the odd Ox and a few people working the fields. Mostly the fields were being burnt, the acrid smoke adding to the imposing smog that stretched from city to city. I kept waiting as the hours stretched by for the pretty vision that had been described to me. The fields themselves were tiny, no more than a large back yard in a wealthy Toronto neighbourhood. They were neat and well irrigated and green things were growing in them. But countryside? It must have been pretty in the past.
Driving on the highways from Chang Sha, through Zhu Zhou and to Chang Zhou is an exercise in vehicular chicken. Our driver must have nerves of steel as he bullied his way along the two lane highway three abreast with heavy trucks. We passed trucks carrying pigs, goats, donkeys and one with tiny cages packed ten high and about twenty long. At first I couldn’t figure out what the furry things were in these cages, assuming they were some exotic variety of goats. When we later passed a similar stock truck, I took a closer look and realized that eachcage contained a dog destined for the dinner table. We also passed buses that had beds instead of seats. Some of these buses drive for nineteen hours or more. The buses were packed with mothers and children sharing the tiny beds as well as laborers and other travelers. They looked curiously at us in our bus as we tried to get a picture of this unfamiliar sight. What a good idea! We need sleeping busses in Canada.
Before we began our journey this morning we started the day at a popular park and pavilion. It was really fun to see all the people enjoying themselves. Some people were practicing their ballroom dancing, others playing checkers, some performing in musical groups and children were playing with a variety of neat toys that the girls all had an opportunity to try. There were also men making water calligraphy on the sidewalk and they were keen to teach the girls. The people there were as curious about us as we were about them and soon we had crowds of people laughing and smiling as we all tried each other’s activity. After the park it was off to the temple to burn Joss sticks and make a wish. There were 500 Buddhas there and lots of people. I loved the ponds full of Koi and turtles. I can imagine that it is quite pretty in the spring. As it is December the leaves are looking a bit limp and there are few flowers blooming in the single digit weather.
We did make it to Chen Zhou after five and half hours. The city itself is full of lights and seems much more modern and tidy than the other cities we have been to. It is late now so exploring will have to wait until tomorrow. Good night from Chen Zhou.
Tuesday, November 27, 2007
Day 6 - Zhu Zhou
Tuesday November 27th
The sun tried valiantly to force its way through the smog. It was brighter today and a bit cooler. We all piled on the bus to head for Zhu Zhou where Isabelle’s orphanage is located. I was looking forward to getting out of the city and, perhaps, breathing some fresh air. After an hour we had reached the 8km limit of the city and areas of trees and tiny farm patches began to appear. But, the smog persisted. The leaves and branches of the trees were grimy with the pollution. Twice we passed kilometers long line ups of trucks waiting for their allotment of diesel. Our guide told us that sometimes they wait for up to a full day in order to get refueled.
I kept hoping to see countryside but the evidence of man’s physical will being imposed upon the land was everywhere to be seen. An hour late we arrived in the city of Zhou Zhou or Chen Zhou. It was pretty in a way with its lakes and large river. We were told that it had a huge textile market and it certainly appeared to be a city whose streets were bustling with commerce.
The entrance to the orphanage was neat and opened onto pretty landscaped area surrounded by walls painted with colourful images. The buildings were modern and bright covered in blue glass. We were greeted by the director, the woman who gave Sophie her Chinese name – Chun Fang, and were taken up to a sitting room. Sophie’s nanny was brought in and there was much smiling and hugging and exchanging of gifts. Both Sophie and her Nanny were seemed thrilled to see each other. We were then taken on a tour of the building that held the special needs children. These children appeared have a multitude of different disabilities but were all neatly dressed and attended by the women who work at the orphanage. I was impressed by the cleanliness, the cheerful and educational environment and the obvious health of the children.
After the tour we were taken to a local restaurant where our guide and driver gamely carried Marg up several flights of stairs. We went to a private room to eat which is common here. The food was fantastic and if I spoke Chinese I might be able to tell you what it was! I tried hard to imitate our hosts and hostesses table manners so that they wouldn’t think that I was too rude. Our guide wisely slipped out before the meal was finished and paid so that the orphanage women and Marg would not fight over who should pay.
After a two and half hour drive back where we passed the same trucks in the diesel line-up that we had seen four hours earlier Marg went up to the room for a nap and the girls and I continued on with their cousins to the Embroidery Museum. The embroidery was impressive. Some pieces taking over a year to be completed. Many of them looked like oil paintings or photographs from a distance but when looked at more closely had a rich texture from the variety of different stitches that gave the images a life-like quality.
Dinner consisted of a buffet of snake, river turtle, ostrich tendons, dog, shrimp, and a variety of raw meat and fish that could be cooked to your specifications. It was delicious, but I have to admit that I did give the dog a pass. No funny stories to tell today. It was more emotional as Sophie at age seven seemed to really connect with her heritage after seeing her orphanage and spending time with her Nanny. She was sad to leave.
The sun tried valiantly to force its way through the smog. It was brighter today and a bit cooler. We all piled on the bus to head for Zhu Zhou where Isabelle’s orphanage is located. I was looking forward to getting out of the city and, perhaps, breathing some fresh air. After an hour we had reached the 8km limit of the city and areas of trees and tiny farm patches began to appear. But, the smog persisted. The leaves and branches of the trees were grimy with the pollution. Twice we passed kilometers long line ups of trucks waiting for their allotment of diesel. Our guide told us that sometimes they wait for up to a full day in order to get refueled.
I kept hoping to see countryside but the evidence of man’s physical will being imposed upon the land was everywhere to be seen. An hour late we arrived in the city of Zhou Zhou or Chen Zhou. It was pretty in a way with its lakes and large river. We were told that it had a huge textile market and it certainly appeared to be a city whose streets were bustling with commerce.
The entrance to the orphanage was neat and opened onto pretty landscaped area surrounded by walls painted with colourful images. The buildings were modern and bright covered in blue glass. We were greeted by the director, the woman who gave Sophie her Chinese name – Chun Fang, and were taken up to a sitting room. Sophie’s nanny was brought in and there was much smiling and hugging and exchanging of gifts. Both Sophie and her Nanny were seemed thrilled to see each other. We were then taken on a tour of the building that held the special needs children. These children appeared have a multitude of different disabilities but were all neatly dressed and attended by the women who work at the orphanage. I was impressed by the cleanliness, the cheerful and educational environment and the obvious health of the children.
After the tour we were taken to a local restaurant where our guide and driver gamely carried Marg up several flights of stairs. We went to a private room to eat which is common here. The food was fantastic and if I spoke Chinese I might be able to tell you what it was! I tried hard to imitate our hosts and hostesses table manners so that they wouldn’t think that I was too rude. Our guide wisely slipped out before the meal was finished and paid so that the orphanage women and Marg would not fight over who should pay.
After a two and half hour drive back where we passed the same trucks in the diesel line-up that we had seen four hours earlier Marg went up to the room for a nap and the girls and I continued on with their cousins to the Embroidery Museum. The embroidery was impressive. Some pieces taking over a year to be completed. Many of them looked like oil paintings or photographs from a distance but when looked at more closely had a rich texture from the variety of different stitches that gave the images a life-like quality.
Dinner consisted of a buffet of snake, river turtle, ostrich tendons, dog, shrimp, and a variety of raw meat and fish that could be cooked to your specifications. It was delicious, but I have to admit that I did give the dog a pass. No funny stories to tell today. It was more emotional as Sophie at age seven seemed to really connect with her heritage after seeing her orphanage and spending time with her Nanny. She was sad to leave.
Monday, November 26, 2007
Day 5 - Chang Sha
Monday November 26, 2007
What an emotional day it has been for the people that I am traveling with. Five new families became on member larger. Margaret’s brother and sister in law were amongst those families as they added a third daughter to their family of natural born daughter, and Chinese adopted son. As we arrived at the registry office to finish off the paperwork and meet the new children, Steph could barely contain her tears of excitement. The other mothers and fathers were in much the same state. Most of them had previously adopted children from China and like us, had brought them along. The room was full of anxious thrilled parents, exited children and pleased officials.
One by one the new family members were brought to the room where they were filmed and photographed like rock stars. The outpouring of love and welcome was moving. If anyone ever doubted that adoption wasn’t a wonderful opportunity for all those involved than they should witness a scene like this. The new children greeted their new families; some with reticence, some with quiet composure and others with tears. A few hours later those families were complete and the new children looked as though they had been part of the family since birth. The new children ranged in age from ten month old babies to three year olds and yet they all adjusted quickly to their families.
Once the paperwork was signed we went off to purchase new clothing, diapers etc. for three year old Zu Wei – Caroline Barker – and Marg purchased toys, clothing, diapers, formula and more to take as gifts for the orphanages that we will be visiting over the next few days. Tomorrow we go to Isabelle’s orphanage. Then everyone returned home to bond with their new relatives.
Lunch was a hotel buffet and offered many different Asian dishes from Sushi, to snake and river turtle. The river turtle was delicious, but I gave a pass on the snake in hot peppers as I am still recovering from my Szechwan adventure last night. With some time to kill after lunch I decided to have a hair cut at the Saloon (that’s not a spelling mistake). The hair cut included a head massage, neck shoulder and hand massage and most intriguing an ear cleaning and ear massage. It was wonderful and was carried out with a multitude of giggles as communication was virtually non-existent. Men and women have their massages in the same room and, as I was the only Caucasian and a blonde woman to boot, I had quite an audience. Despite that it was amazingly relaxing. My hair cut turned out to be interesting as my massage audience was equally intrigued by my hair. I signaled through hand gestures to the stylist what I wanted then just smiled and hoped for the best. I don’t think I have ever had my hair so thoroughly combed and carefully picked apart by a stylist’s fingers as I did today. I even had it photographed by one member of my audience! The hair turned out a reasonably facsimile of what I wanted and they insisted on putting it in a pony tail as that is how I came in and they were sure that was how I liked it. So my lovely hairdo was combed out and put in a pony tail.
The others have gone off for another Szechwan adventure with their guide tonight. I need to give my stomach a break so I am eating alone in the room. It is peaceful and pleasant despite the noise of the busy Chang Sha streets. Chang Sha is the capital of Hunan and is a medium sized city with a small population of 5.6 million people. The pollution is terrible and stings the eyes. They have been setting off fireworks throughout the day. Apparently when a roof is put on a new building fireworks are set off. The city itself looks to be in a transition as there is rubble, dug up sidewalks and construction debris everywhere. The houses here are more colourful than in Beijing, boasting purple and green balconies or any other gaudy colour combination. Every small street looks like a Souk and there are vendors selling a variety of very interesting looking dishes along the streets. I wish my stomach could handle this type of exploring as it smells fabulous.
I look forward to the drive to Sophie’s orphanage as we will finally get out of the city. Flying in I could see mountains and rivers and a patchwork quilt of small farms and am dying to see them up close. Until tomor
What an emotional day it has been for the people that I am traveling with. Five new families became on member larger. Margaret’s brother and sister in law were amongst those families as they added a third daughter to their family of natural born daughter, and Chinese adopted son. As we arrived at the registry office to finish off the paperwork and meet the new children, Steph could barely contain her tears of excitement. The other mothers and fathers were in much the same state. Most of them had previously adopted children from China and like us, had brought them along. The room was full of anxious thrilled parents, exited children and pleased officials.
One by one the new family members were brought to the room where they were filmed and photographed like rock stars. The outpouring of love and welcome was moving. If anyone ever doubted that adoption wasn’t a wonderful opportunity for all those involved than they should witness a scene like this. The new children greeted their new families; some with reticence, some with quiet composure and others with tears. A few hours later those families were complete and the new children looked as though they had been part of the family since birth. The new children ranged in age from ten month old babies to three year olds and yet they all adjusted quickly to their families.
Once the paperwork was signed we went off to purchase new clothing, diapers etc. for three year old Zu Wei – Caroline Barker – and Marg purchased toys, clothing, diapers, formula and more to take as gifts for the orphanages that we will be visiting over the next few days. Tomorrow we go to Isabelle’s orphanage. Then everyone returned home to bond with their new relatives.
Lunch was a hotel buffet and offered many different Asian dishes from Sushi, to snake and river turtle. The river turtle was delicious, but I gave a pass on the snake in hot peppers as I am still recovering from my Szechwan adventure last night. With some time to kill after lunch I decided to have a hair cut at the Saloon (that’s not a spelling mistake). The hair cut included a head massage, neck shoulder and hand massage and most intriguing an ear cleaning and ear massage. It was wonderful and was carried out with a multitude of giggles as communication was virtually non-existent. Men and women have their massages in the same room and, as I was the only Caucasian and a blonde woman to boot, I had quite an audience. Despite that it was amazingly relaxing. My hair cut turned out to be interesting as my massage audience was equally intrigued by my hair. I signaled through hand gestures to the stylist what I wanted then just smiled and hoped for the best. I don’t think I have ever had my hair so thoroughly combed and carefully picked apart by a stylist’s fingers as I did today. I even had it photographed by one member of my audience! The hair turned out a reasonably facsimile of what I wanted and they insisted on putting it in a pony tail as that is how I came in and they were sure that was how I liked it. So my lovely hairdo was combed out and put in a pony tail.
The others have gone off for another Szechwan adventure with their guide tonight. I need to give my stomach a break so I am eating alone in the room. It is peaceful and pleasant despite the noise of the busy Chang Sha streets. Chang Sha is the capital of Hunan and is a medium sized city with a small population of 5.6 million people. The pollution is terrible and stings the eyes. They have been setting off fireworks throughout the day. Apparently when a roof is put on a new building fireworks are set off. The city itself looks to be in a transition as there is rubble, dug up sidewalks and construction debris everywhere. The houses here are more colourful than in Beijing, boasting purple and green balconies or any other gaudy colour combination. Every small street looks like a Souk and there are vendors selling a variety of very interesting looking dishes along the streets. I wish my stomach could handle this type of exploring as it smells fabulous.
I look forward to the drive to Sophie’s orphanage as we will finally get out of the city. Flying in I could see mountains and rivers and a patchwork quilt of small farms and am dying to see them up close. Until tomor
Sunday, November 25, 2007
Day 4
Sunday, November 24, 2007
I am sitting on an airplane. The seatbelt sign has not turned off yet and my ears are popping. We are on our way to Chang Sha the capital city of Hunan – where Sophie and Isabelle were born. In front of me is a contingent of Arab business men. I recognize their accent as gulf Arab and I wonder where they are from. I am tempted to practice my Arabic on them, but then, that would be silly. I miss our expat life.
The silk Market last night was so much fun. It is now indoors but consists of seven floors of incredibly crowded flee market like stands. You can buy anything there! We start off on the watch/electronic/jewelry/nick knack floor. I warm up by bartering for a Breitman Watch for Duncan. I get the price very low and it worries me so I tell them I don’t want it. But it was fun. I haven’t lost my bartering skills. It goes much faster here than in Abu Dhabi. Marg and the girls barter for some toys and children’s earrings. The kids are loving it. Despite the fact that it is very cold outside it is excruciatingly hot. Two hours later and feeling invigorating by the challenge of the buy I proudly show Marg my purchases. I have come away with two I Pods which cost me the equivalent of $20/each, some jade, and some gifts for the kids. Marg and the girls, equally flushed with their successes all agree that we should return to the Market when we come back to Beijing in six days time. I can’t wait.
For dinner we went to a traditional Mongolian restaurant. The waiters and waitresses were all dressed in traditional clothing. I wished that I could dress up like that as the clothing was rich in colour and texture and edged with fur. After convincing two of the waiters to carry Marg up the stairs and a couple of false starts where they nearly dumped her out in their enthusiasm to help we were seated at our ornate carved table in a crowded room. The food was fantastic. Again we just pointed at things and hoped for the best. Marg and I both agreed that Duncan would be jealous of our feast. We had lamb skewers that were seasoned with the most delicious things and mouth wateringly tender. The camel wraps were second to none and the vegetable dish full of vegetables that I had never tasted before was savory and perfectly prepared. Our meal finished with a soup like dish that we added whole wheat noodles, pickled garlic and some other unidentified things. Our cute waitress distressed that we obviously did not know how to eat it, came over and gestured the correct way to manage it. What fun.
Later we were treated to a show with haunting violin like instruments and evocative singers. It was incredibly moving and the audience shouted its pleasure. There was also some unusual frantic dancing and some more modern pieces all performed by men and women in fantastic clothing that one would expect to see in a fantasy film What an evening it was!! The girls are slowly adjusting to the time change and were able to enjoy the performance and almost agreed to join in the dancing when they were invited up on stage.
This morning came quickly as we were up late rearranging suitcases trying to decide what to take with us to the southern provinces and what we could safely leave behind. Again we had a filling and delicious breakfast – I think I have gained almost ten pounds already! Our driver picked us up exactly on time and transported us to the airport where officials tried to decide what the appropriate thing was to do with Marg’s wheelchair. Eventually after much gesticulating, waiver signing (all in Chinese) it was decided that Marg would be taken through special security and I would take the girls through regular security. The girls would have nothing to do with this and I, have to admit, with twenty minutes to catch the plane I was not too thrilled about being separated. But we went our different ways and managed to get to the plane. Once on it was another adventure in sign language as we tried to explain that Marg’s chair was to stay on the plane. I can’t get over how amazingly cooperative and willingly helpful the Chinese people are.
And now I am enjoying a cup of Herbal tea, some unidentifiable snacks – tasty – and the thought of the next leg of our adventure. I ask Marg, do you like the snacks? Ya she replies, What are they? I ask “I don’t know but they are good” she replies. So now I will try them myself. Bye for now.
Martha
I am sitting on an airplane. The seatbelt sign has not turned off yet and my ears are popping. We are on our way to Chang Sha the capital city of Hunan – where Sophie and Isabelle were born. In front of me is a contingent of Arab business men. I recognize their accent as gulf Arab and I wonder where they are from. I am tempted to practice my Arabic on them, but then, that would be silly. I miss our expat life.
The silk Market last night was so much fun. It is now indoors but consists of seven floors of incredibly crowded flee market like stands. You can buy anything there! We start off on the watch/electronic/jewelry/nick knack floor. I warm up by bartering for a Breitman Watch for Duncan. I get the price very low and it worries me so I tell them I don’t want it. But it was fun. I haven’t lost my bartering skills. It goes much faster here than in Abu Dhabi. Marg and the girls barter for some toys and children’s earrings. The kids are loving it. Despite the fact that it is very cold outside it is excruciatingly hot. Two hours later and feeling invigorating by the challenge of the buy I proudly show Marg my purchases. I have come away with two I Pods which cost me the equivalent of $20/each, some jade, and some gifts for the kids. Marg and the girls, equally flushed with their successes all agree that we should return to the Market when we come back to Beijing in six days time. I can’t wait.
For dinner we went to a traditional Mongolian restaurant. The waiters and waitresses were all dressed in traditional clothing. I wished that I could dress up like that as the clothing was rich in colour and texture and edged with fur. After convincing two of the waiters to carry Marg up the stairs and a couple of false starts where they nearly dumped her out in their enthusiasm to help we were seated at our ornate carved table in a crowded room. The food was fantastic. Again we just pointed at things and hoped for the best. Marg and I both agreed that Duncan would be jealous of our feast. We had lamb skewers that were seasoned with the most delicious things and mouth wateringly tender. The camel wraps were second to none and the vegetable dish full of vegetables that I had never tasted before was savory and perfectly prepared. Our meal finished with a soup like dish that we added whole wheat noodles, pickled garlic and some other unidentified things. Our cute waitress distressed that we obviously did not know how to eat it, came over and gestured the correct way to manage it. What fun.
Later we were treated to a show with haunting violin like instruments and evocative singers. It was incredibly moving and the audience shouted its pleasure. There was also some unusual frantic dancing and some more modern pieces all performed by men and women in fantastic clothing that one would expect to see in a fantasy film What an evening it was!! The girls are slowly adjusting to the time change and were able to enjoy the performance and almost agreed to join in the dancing when they were invited up on stage.
This morning came quickly as we were up late rearranging suitcases trying to decide what to take with us to the southern provinces and what we could safely leave behind. Again we had a filling and delicious breakfast – I think I have gained almost ten pounds already! Our driver picked us up exactly on time and transported us to the airport where officials tried to decide what the appropriate thing was to do with Marg’s wheelchair. Eventually after much gesticulating, waiver signing (all in Chinese) it was decided that Marg would be taken through special security and I would take the girls through regular security. The girls would have nothing to do with this and I, have to admit, with twenty minutes to catch the plane I was not too thrilled about being separated. But we went our different ways and managed to get to the plane. Once on it was another adventure in sign language as we tried to explain that Marg’s chair was to stay on the plane. I can’t get over how amazingly cooperative and willingly helpful the Chinese people are.
And now I am enjoying a cup of Herbal tea, some unidentifiable snacks – tasty – and the thought of the next leg of our adventure. I ask Marg, do you like the snacks? Ya she replies, What are they? I ask “I don’t know but they are good” she replies. So now I will try them myself. Bye for now.
Martha
Friday, November 23, 2007
Day 3
Saturday November 24, 2007
Trying to find quiet time is a bit of challenge. The girls age five and seven have been handling the time change and packed schedule we have well, but, still they are young and needy and we are all sharing the same space. For me this is the ultimate test of doting aunty-hood.
Today we spent the morning at the kite factory. The name certainly conjures up images of steel and smoke stacks and loads of workers when it fact it was a tiny house in an old hutong. Just getting there was an adventure. Once we pulled off the main streets of Beijing we were faced with tiny narrow alley ways. Everything around here is under construction in anticipation of the Olympics and this hutong was no exception. Rubble, steel, and workers filled the tiny lanes. Once our Van disengorged us to the fascination of the many, many bystanders. The local bicycle taxis insisted that Marg and her daughters ride to the kite factory. They dutifully loaded her up while Mari and I followed pushing the wheel chair. We picked our way amongst the construction rubble, past traditionally built grey buildings. I am told all buildings are grey as no other colour was permitted except in the Forbidden City. The tiny lane was crowded with bicycle taxis, bicycle garbage collectors, dogs, people and a few unwise small cars.
The kite maker was a fascinating individual who proudly showed us his craft. It was inspiring to see his work and almost impossible to describe the care and detail that goes into these special kites built on bamboo frames with hand painted silk and nylon skins. The kites represented animals and mythical creatures and many of them were so well designed that they could fly without wind. I bought an “expensive” dragon for Duncan as I was so entranced by its beauty. I spent 200 wan or less than $30Can.
The girls were not as intrigued by the kite maker’s workmanship but were as enthralled as we were by the finished products. They were presented with two unfinished kites to complete themselves when they return to Canada. On our way out we all walked through the alleyways of the hutong attracting stares and causing people to walk backwards as they tried to take in the strange sight of Marg in her wheelchair accompanied by two obviously Chinese children. I have to say that I have intentionally hung back behind them in our walks as observing the local reaction to this spectacle is quite amazing. I have tried to catch it on camera but when I am noticed the people quickly look away.
The highlight today so far has been our lunch experience. Determined to eat locally we left the hotel in search of a smaller cheaper restaurant where we could have Dim Sum. We eventually found a busy lunch spot that was not unlike those fast food joints of North America in decor. We boldly entered trying not to notice the patrons sudden halt in eating as they stared open mouthed at us. Fortunately the menu had pictures and I just pointed and the waitress tried to nonchalantly write down our order. Lunch arrived and again our fellow diners stopped and stared to see what we would do with it. Marg and I unwrapped our chopsticks and began eating while the girls wrestled with soup spoons, fingers and noodles. The neighbouring table did not even attempt to contain their giggles as they watched the “round eyes” with their strange Chinese children eat like heathens. I am not sure who got more entertainment value out of the lunch. I certainly enjoyed it!
The people here are genuinely friendly and often try to speak to us, assuming that the girls speak Chinese. They are eager to help and happily lift Marg up and down stairs while she bravely hangs on and smiles as they tip her cheerfully in some pretty hair raising angles. The staring is done openly and if I walk with the girls alone I receive only a passing glance but the four of us raise many questions. We are often asked what Marg and my relationship is as two women together is inappropriate for this culture. The concept of cousins is hard to explain but once the inquirer realizes that we share the same grandmother they are obviously relieved. Still, I am usually ignored while Marg and the girls are enveloped in friendly discourse. In many ways taking a back seat has given me an opportunity to observe the interactions between two cultures in a way that I might not have seen if I had been traveling with my own family. I certainly have managed to get some interesting pictures by trailing well behind the Lawson/Barker trio and just watching the effect they have on their surroundings.
This afternoon we are off to the Silk Market. I am looking forward to it as I hope to pick up some Christmas gifts and I really enjoy bartering. Being here makes me miss the ex-pat life. I must make the most of this opportunity before I head back to the routine of Flesherton life.
Trying to find quiet time is a bit of challenge. The girls age five and seven have been handling the time change and packed schedule we have well, but, still they are young and needy and we are all sharing the same space. For me this is the ultimate test of doting aunty-hood.
Today we spent the morning at the kite factory. The name certainly conjures up images of steel and smoke stacks and loads of workers when it fact it was a tiny house in an old hutong. Just getting there was an adventure. Once we pulled off the main streets of Beijing we were faced with tiny narrow alley ways. Everything around here is under construction in anticipation of the Olympics and this hutong was no exception. Rubble, steel, and workers filled the tiny lanes. Once our Van disengorged us to the fascination of the many, many bystanders. The local bicycle taxis insisted that Marg and her daughters ride to the kite factory. They dutifully loaded her up while Mari and I followed pushing the wheel chair. We picked our way amongst the construction rubble, past traditionally built grey buildings. I am told all buildings are grey as no other colour was permitted except in the Forbidden City. The tiny lane was crowded with bicycle taxis, bicycle garbage collectors, dogs, people and a few unwise small cars.
The kite maker was a fascinating individual who proudly showed us his craft. It was inspiring to see his work and almost impossible to describe the care and detail that goes into these special kites built on bamboo frames with hand painted silk and nylon skins. The kites represented animals and mythical creatures and many of them were so well designed that they could fly without wind. I bought an “expensive” dragon for Duncan as I was so entranced by its beauty. I spent 200 wan or less than $30Can.
The girls were not as intrigued by the kite maker’s workmanship but were as enthralled as we were by the finished products. They were presented with two unfinished kites to complete themselves when they return to Canada. On our way out we all walked through the alleyways of the hutong attracting stares and causing people to walk backwards as they tried to take in the strange sight of Marg in her wheelchair accompanied by two obviously Chinese children. I have to say that I have intentionally hung back behind them in our walks as observing the local reaction to this spectacle is quite amazing. I have tried to catch it on camera but when I am noticed the people quickly look away.
The highlight today so far has been our lunch experience. Determined to eat locally we left the hotel in search of a smaller cheaper restaurant where we could have Dim Sum. We eventually found a busy lunch spot that was not unlike those fast food joints of North America in decor. We boldly entered trying not to notice the patrons sudden halt in eating as they stared open mouthed at us. Fortunately the menu had pictures and I just pointed and the waitress tried to nonchalantly write down our order. Lunch arrived and again our fellow diners stopped and stared to see what we would do with it. Marg and I unwrapped our chopsticks and began eating while the girls wrestled with soup spoons, fingers and noodles. The neighbouring table did not even attempt to contain their giggles as they watched the “round eyes” with their strange Chinese children eat like heathens. I am not sure who got more entertainment value out of the lunch. I certainly enjoyed it!
The people here are genuinely friendly and often try to speak to us, assuming that the girls speak Chinese. They are eager to help and happily lift Marg up and down stairs while she bravely hangs on and smiles as they tip her cheerfully in some pretty hair raising angles. The staring is done openly and if I walk with the girls alone I receive only a passing glance but the four of us raise many questions. We are often asked what Marg and my relationship is as two women together is inappropriate for this culture. The concept of cousins is hard to explain but once the inquirer realizes that we share the same grandmother they are obviously relieved. Still, I am usually ignored while Marg and the girls are enveloped in friendly discourse. In many ways taking a back seat has given me an opportunity to observe the interactions between two cultures in a way that I might not have seen if I had been traveling with my own family. I certainly have managed to get some interesting pictures by trailing well behind the Lawson/Barker trio and just watching the effect they have on their surroundings.
This afternoon we are off to the Silk Market. I am looking forward to it as I hope to pick up some Christmas gifts and I really enjoy bartering. Being here makes me miss the ex-pat life. I must make the most of this opportunity before I head back to the routine of Flesherton life.
Day 2 in Beijing
Welcome to my second attempt to start a blog on our trip to China. Two days ago my cousin Margaret, her two chinese born daughters and I left Toronto for a two week adventure in China. The trip was to be a family trip to reintroduce my cousin's daughters to their birth country. Unfortunately with just three days until departure my cousin's husband was forced to deal with a work emergency. This meant I was the lucky fill in - and after jumping through several beaurocratic hoops andwith only seven minutes to spare I managed to meet Marg, Sophie and Isabelle at the plane destined for Beijing on the morning of Wednesday November 21.
The trip itself was a uneventful and we arrived in Beijing on a smoggy cool fall day. The girls had travelled well, although the youngest at age five had not slept at all. The remainder of the day was a blur and we all fell into bed exhausted at 8pm local time.
Today was our first tourist adventure. Our guide who is a regular guide for the adoption company Children's Bridge had planned several meaningful visits for the girls. After a fabulous breakfast of local food we piled into the van and headed for a small school in a nearby village. In actual fact the "village" had long since been swallowed up by the enormous city of Beijing that boasts 14 million people who ride nine million bicycles! Even with all those bicycle riders the traffic is horrendous and it took us nearly one and half hours to drive 8Km to the school.
We were greeted by officials from the school and elsewhere when we arrived and were treated to watching the children exercise in the school yard. After that we were invited to observe a group of seven year olds during their daily English class. Today's lesson involved standing up and enunciating clearly "I am a fat cow" with a picture of a cow stuck to the child's shirt. All the children proudly completed this task and not one person in the room cracked a smile. I wondered whether any of the children realised what they were actually saying or whether the teacher had planned this as some kind of a private joke. The kids were all amazingly well behaved and sat silently with their arms crossed at their desks. When called upon they all thrust up their arms shouting the Chineses equivalent of "pick me". It was designed to impress and it did. While we were in the class room I saw one other large tour group go through and I wondered if this sort of invasion was a daily experience for these children.
Following our school visit we were taken to the "village" to visit the paper cut house where craftspeople engage in tradition chinese craft making. In fact the traditional village was a brand new replica filled with empty houses and a few craft people. Our guide seemed mildly surprised when asked if this was a new set of buildings but did admit that it was a new old village. The "village" itself was nestled under the imposing chimneys of the nuclear power plant and surrounded by red banners written in both English and Chineses espousing correct behaviour and thinking for the chinese people. It was a little surreal.
The third stop on our route was to visit a farmer's house. Actually there was no evidence of any farming in this collection of homes in a factory area. This did not seem to phase our tour guide who cheerfully introduced us to the farmeress in the house that bore a sign reading "official site of traditionall home". The house itself was spotless and quite modern. Filled with at least twenty empty birdcages - the farmeress got rid of them because they were too noisy (actually I doubt a bird ever lived in them as they were spotless too) and huge TV and pictures of her family hidden behind the proper pictures (the pictures of the family were brought out when Marg asked about her daughter and grandson). The kids enjoyed the mandarins and watching highly competitive ping pong on the impressive tv. I got the impression that we were being practised on in anticipation of the influx of visitors during next year's Olympics.
We made a somewhat unwise decision to take the girls on a walk to a park for exercise after lunch of dim sum (delicious) so that they would sleep better tonight. After walking for far too long we gave up on the park and returned home with very sore feet. I did enjoy the walk as the shops were really interesting - a hodge podge of the usual type of store you find in any part of the world, and traditional architecture that seems to have lost value today. It reminded me of Abu Dhabi as there were many tiny food shops selling savoury dishes of every sort mixed in with textiles, electronics and dollar store type things.
Now I am sitting in a pitch black room. The girls have collapsed and are fast asleep. With any luck they will sleep through the night this time as Marg and I need the sleep too. Tomorrow our guide is taking us to a Kite Factory and to fly kites. I hope to go to the Silk Market which sounds like an Arab Souk. I am so glad that Abu Dhabi trained me well in the art of bartering as I am told that that is necessary. I can't wait.
Until tomorrow.......
The trip itself was a uneventful and we arrived in Beijing on a smoggy cool fall day. The girls had travelled well, although the youngest at age five had not slept at all. The remainder of the day was a blur and we all fell into bed exhausted at 8pm local time.
Today was our first tourist adventure. Our guide who is a regular guide for the adoption company Children's Bridge had planned several meaningful visits for the girls. After a fabulous breakfast of local food we piled into the van and headed for a small school in a nearby village. In actual fact the "village" had long since been swallowed up by the enormous city of Beijing that boasts 14 million people who ride nine million bicycles! Even with all those bicycle riders the traffic is horrendous and it took us nearly one and half hours to drive 8Km to the school.
We were greeted by officials from the school and elsewhere when we arrived and were treated to watching the children exercise in the school yard. After that we were invited to observe a group of seven year olds during their daily English class. Today's lesson involved standing up and enunciating clearly "I am a fat cow" with a picture of a cow stuck to the child's shirt. All the children proudly completed this task and not one person in the room cracked a smile. I wondered whether any of the children realised what they were actually saying or whether the teacher had planned this as some kind of a private joke. The kids were all amazingly well behaved and sat silently with their arms crossed at their desks. When called upon they all thrust up their arms shouting the Chineses equivalent of "pick me". It was designed to impress and it did. While we were in the class room I saw one other large tour group go through and I wondered if this sort of invasion was a daily experience for these children.
Following our school visit we were taken to the "village" to visit the paper cut house where craftspeople engage in tradition chinese craft making. In fact the traditional village was a brand new replica filled with empty houses and a few craft people. Our guide seemed mildly surprised when asked if this was a new set of buildings but did admit that it was a new old village. The "village" itself was nestled under the imposing chimneys of the nuclear power plant and surrounded by red banners written in both English and Chineses espousing correct behaviour and thinking for the chinese people. It was a little surreal.
The third stop on our route was to visit a farmer's house. Actually there was no evidence of any farming in this collection of homes in a factory area. This did not seem to phase our tour guide who cheerfully introduced us to the farmeress in the house that bore a sign reading "official site of traditionall home". The house itself was spotless and quite modern. Filled with at least twenty empty birdcages - the farmeress got rid of them because they were too noisy (actually I doubt a bird ever lived in them as they were spotless too) and huge TV and pictures of her family hidden behind the proper pictures (the pictures of the family were brought out when Marg asked about her daughter and grandson). The kids enjoyed the mandarins and watching highly competitive ping pong on the impressive tv. I got the impression that we were being practised on in anticipation of the influx of visitors during next year's Olympics.
We made a somewhat unwise decision to take the girls on a walk to a park for exercise after lunch of dim sum (delicious) so that they would sleep better tonight. After walking for far too long we gave up on the park and returned home with very sore feet. I did enjoy the walk as the shops were really interesting - a hodge podge of the usual type of store you find in any part of the world, and traditional architecture that seems to have lost value today. It reminded me of Abu Dhabi as there were many tiny food shops selling savoury dishes of every sort mixed in with textiles, electronics and dollar store type things.
Now I am sitting in a pitch black room. The girls have collapsed and are fast asleep. With any luck they will sleep through the night this time as Marg and I need the sleep too. Tomorrow our guide is taking us to a Kite Factory and to fly kites. I hope to go to the Silk Market which sounds like an Arab Souk. I am so glad that Abu Dhabi trained me well in the art of bartering as I am told that that is necessary. I can't wait.
Until tomorrow.......
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