I woke up a bit disoriented this morning. I lost a day in travel having left at 3pm on Thursday afternoon from Beijing and arriving at 2:20pm on Thursday afternoon in Toronto. It is cold and snowy here and everyone seems to have adjusted to the new weather. I feel like I am in the twilight zone.... again.
The last two days in Beijing were spent doing touristy things. We went to Ti an an Min square and other than the impressive facts that is can host 1 million people and houses Chairman Mao's mausoleum I could have given it a pass on that freezing December day. The Forbidden city was interesting, but again cold and crowded and really somewhat repetitive - seen one room seen 'em all - in its hugeness. I am sure it is much more impressive, and crowded, in the spring. Shopping was fun and we had a few more taxi adventures but, for the most part, everyone was keen to get their new families home.
My cousin and her daughters felt that they had accomplished what they came for and were keen to go home and see their father whose business requirements allowed me to be the replacement. I found the whole experience very educational from a myriad of perspectives. I learnt a lot about adopted families, different parenting strategies and reactions to children's personalities, what it is like to travel with someone else's children under fairly stressful circumstances and to observe another country and culture, not so much as a tourist, or an ex-pat, but as a outsider looking in. I was most impressed by the generosity and genuine welcome we received from all of the Chinese people that we interacted with. I was also impressed by the effect that man can have on his environment and felt that China should serve as a warning to the rest of the world of what will happen to all of us if we don't take the negative impact we have on our environment seriously.
Bye for now. Thanks for reading. Until the next travel adventure.........
Friday, December 7, 2007
Tuesday, December 4, 2007
Day 12 - The Great Wall of China
What a day! We started out at 9:30 and drove just under two hours to a fairly remote section of the Great Wall. As we left the city and approached the wall we could see jaggedy mountain and bits of the wall as it snaked its wall across the highest points of each mountain. From the parking lot at the bottom we still had to climb a steep cobble stone road to many, many steps before we could access the cable car that would take us most of the way to the top. For many able bodied people this is a hard breathing climb, but for us it had its own unique challenges. The only male in our group of eight certainly had his work cut out for him as the remaining seven females consisted of four children age 3, 5, 7 and 11, two middle aged women each with their own aches and weaknesses and one middle aged very fit, but confined to a wheelchair, woman. As Christo pushed Marg up the gauntlet of aggressive souvenir sellers we sucked in the cleanest air so far this trip as we panted our way to the bottom of the stairs. The stairs presented yet another enthusiastic challenge for our group as Christo and I carried Marg and chair up to the landing pad of the cable car, while Steph herded our group of girls up.
The cable car was great fun. Once again Steph and young females took one car, while Christo carried Marg and I carried chair into the cable car ridden in by none other than Bill Clinton on his visit to the same locale. On arriving at the top of the pretty ride we were presented with more stairs to the lookout just beneath the wall itself. Huffing and puffing and quite pleased with ourselves we all gazed out in wonder as we unpopped our ears and took in the fantastically rough vista. Then it was the stairs of the wall itself. Each step was a different height and sometimes more then knee height in rise. I realised that I couldn't help Christo with this task so he put Marg on his back and the two of them laughed their way up the difficult rise. I carried the chair and Steph herded the girls who climbed any way the could up the stairs and onto the wall itself. We made it! And it was well worth the effort. We all glowed with our accomplishment and marvelled at how the Mongols could possibly have overcome the 2400km long towering wall through this unbelievably harsh terrain.
Walking along the wall was an almost spiritual experience. Because of the time of year and the weather there were few other walkers besides ourselves and I could hear each of my footfalls and the swish of my bag as I gingerly stepped up and down the ramps, steps and ladders. The cool clear air was invigorating and the view of the Wall stretching as far as the eye could see in either direction was amazing. Too soon the children had had enough and we all made our way for the equally exciting challenge of getting down. Despite the cold Christo peeled off his outer coverings and carried Marg first on his back and then in her chair down the hundreds of stairs, in and out of the cable car, and down the incredibly steep cobbled road to the bottom. We were all thrilled about our excursion and stopped along the way at a pretty restaurant to talk about it.
Upon returning to Beijing the other three adults headed off to the Markets to complete their Christmas and family gift shopping while I took the four girls swimming. And now three hours later we are getting ready to head off to our favourite Mongolian restaurant. A fitting place to spend the evening given the events of the day.
Take care and see you soon.
The cable car was great fun. Once again Steph and young females took one car, while Christo carried Marg and I carried chair into the cable car ridden in by none other than Bill Clinton on his visit to the same locale. On arriving at the top of the pretty ride we were presented with more stairs to the lookout just beneath the wall itself. Huffing and puffing and quite pleased with ourselves we all gazed out in wonder as we unpopped our ears and took in the fantastically rough vista. Then it was the stairs of the wall itself. Each step was a different height and sometimes more then knee height in rise. I realised that I couldn't help Christo with this task so he put Marg on his back and the two of them laughed their way up the difficult rise. I carried the chair and Steph herded the girls who climbed any way the could up the stairs and onto the wall itself. We made it! And it was well worth the effort. We all glowed with our accomplishment and marvelled at how the Mongols could possibly have overcome the 2400km long towering wall through this unbelievably harsh terrain.
Walking along the wall was an almost spiritual experience. Because of the time of year and the weather there were few other walkers besides ourselves and I could hear each of my footfalls and the swish of my bag as I gingerly stepped up and down the ramps, steps and ladders. The cool clear air was invigorating and the view of the Wall stretching as far as the eye could see in either direction was amazing. Too soon the children had had enough and we all made our way for the equally exciting challenge of getting down. Despite the cold Christo peeled off his outer coverings and carried Marg first on his back and then in her chair down the hundreds of stairs, in and out of the cable car, and down the incredibly steep cobbled road to the bottom. We were all thrilled about our excursion and stopped along the way at a pretty restaurant to talk about it.
Upon returning to Beijing the other three adults headed off to the Markets to complete their Christmas and family gift shopping while I took the four girls swimming. And now three hours later we are getting ready to head off to our favourite Mongolian restaurant. A fitting place to spend the evening given the events of the day.
Take care and see you soon.
Monday, December 3, 2007
Day 11 - Shopping in Beijing
For those of you that know me, you will know that I hate shopping. I don't even grocery shop unless I absolutely have to. So you will be amazed to know that not only did I spend the entire day shopping, but that I attended two of the biggest Markets in Beijing and took great pleasure in haggling. In fact I was able to purchase almost all of my Christmas presents in addition to the obligatory returning home gifts.
This shop was somewhat different in that I set out in the morning with my cousin and her two daughters. We taxied our way to the Ya Xie Market where all of the local people and ex-pats shop. There we met Margaret's brother and sister-in-law, their eleven year old daughter and their newly adopted three year old daughter. Normally I wouldn't even consider this type of shopping with my own children let alone a three year old. Yet somehow the excitement of the bartering experience and the exotic items on offer made the whole adventure great fun for everyone. After lunch we headed off to the famous Silk Market. Seven floors of packed flea market type stalls. By four thirty I was sure that my arms were six inches longer and my feet considerably flatter. With the exception of three year old Zhu Wei the other girls were still game for more shopping. But we called it a day and headed back to our hotel where we congratulated each other on our successes and oohed and ahhed over the various novel items we had discovered and acquired. What fun!
For the first night in eleven days the eight of us called in room service and I listened while Margaret, Christo and Steph remembered fondly their past and present adoption experiences. They talked about their groups that travelled together and still have annual get-togethers. They discussed the various up and downs, thrills, joys and fears that the adoption experience involved. As a mother of five natural children I could have never imagined the very special experience that the adoption process is - and watching the love and closeness of the adopted daughters and their parents I know that adoption is truly a gift for everyone involved.
Tomorrow we are off to the Great Wall. We have discussed the various options of places to see it. We have chosen a medium distance location, not as popular with the tourists and full of difficult approaches with cobbled stones and may stairs. Christo will piggy back Marg if necessary and Steph and I will guide the children and carry the wheel chair. We are all keen to take on our next adventure together.
I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow..
This shop was somewhat different in that I set out in the morning with my cousin and her two daughters. We taxied our way to the Ya Xie Market where all of the local people and ex-pats shop. There we met Margaret's brother and sister-in-law, their eleven year old daughter and their newly adopted three year old daughter. Normally I wouldn't even consider this type of shopping with my own children let alone a three year old. Yet somehow the excitement of the bartering experience and the exotic items on offer made the whole adventure great fun for everyone. After lunch we headed off to the famous Silk Market. Seven floors of packed flea market type stalls. By four thirty I was sure that my arms were six inches longer and my feet considerably flatter. With the exception of three year old Zhu Wei the other girls were still game for more shopping. But we called it a day and headed back to our hotel where we congratulated each other on our successes and oohed and ahhed over the various novel items we had discovered and acquired. What fun!
For the first night in eleven days the eight of us called in room service and I listened while Margaret, Christo and Steph remembered fondly their past and present adoption experiences. They talked about their groups that travelled together and still have annual get-togethers. They discussed the various up and downs, thrills, joys and fears that the adoption experience involved. As a mother of five natural children I could have never imagined the very special experience that the adoption process is - and watching the love and closeness of the adopted daughters and their parents I know that adoption is truly a gift for everyone involved.
Tomorrow we are off to the Great Wall. We have discussed the various options of places to see it. We have chosen a medium distance location, not as popular with the tourists and full of difficult approaches with cobbled stones and may stairs. Christo will piggy back Marg if necessary and Steph and I will guide the children and carry the wheel chair. We are all keen to take on our next adventure together.
I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow..
Sunday, December 2, 2007
Day 9 & 10 Chang Sha to Beijing
I have to combine today's as yesterday the results of my second attempt at eating Sichwaun food came in. Whatever spice that is added to the food, definitely does not agree with me and it was touch and go as to whether I would actually be able to get onto the plane. Fortunately the security guys let me through and with great self-control I made it to the plane. We did make it to Beijing by mid-afternoon, at which point I was well on the way to recovery. Needless to say that night I was pretty careful about what I ate!
Today we had a thoroughly touristy day and it was great fun. We spent the morning at the Beijing Aquarium and Zoo. The Aquarium was most impressive boasting a dolphin show, a shark exhibit and a magnificent coral exhibit that you can walk under, through, around and view from above. The rich coral was amazing complete with many different species of fish, sea turtles, rays, eels and other reef animals. Riding the escalator which goes through a glassed in tunnel through the reef was spectacular. The kids were as enthralled as we are. Unfortunately the Zoo was not as careful with the animal habitats and it was quite disheartening to see single elephants in iron bar cages. Even the Pandas were in pretty bleak enclosures. Quite a contrast to the Aquarium.
In the evening we took in the Chinese Acrobatic show and I have to admit to a bit of anxiety for the safety of the performers as they completed acts that did not look humanly possible. The set changes and music was spectacular and it was an exhilarating act. Dinner tonight was more Mongolian hot pot. Yummy.
Tomorrow we are off to the various street markets to buy Christmas presents while Christo and Steph take their new daughter for her health exam in order to get her passport. Five days until we leave and still so much to see!
Today we had a thoroughly touristy day and it was great fun. We spent the morning at the Beijing Aquarium and Zoo. The Aquarium was most impressive boasting a dolphin show, a shark exhibit and a magnificent coral exhibit that you can walk under, through, around and view from above. The rich coral was amazing complete with many different species of fish, sea turtles, rays, eels and other reef animals. Riding the escalator which goes through a glassed in tunnel through the reef was spectacular. The kids were as enthralled as we are. Unfortunately the Zoo was not as careful with the animal habitats and it was quite disheartening to see single elephants in iron bar cages. Even the Pandas were in pretty bleak enclosures. Quite a contrast to the Aquarium.
In the evening we took in the Chinese Acrobatic show and I have to admit to a bit of anxiety for the safety of the performers as they completed acts that did not look humanly possible. The set changes and music was spectacular and it was an exhilarating act. Dinner tonight was more Mongolian hot pot. Yummy.
Tomorrow we are off to the various street markets to buy Christmas presents while Christo and Steph take their new daughter for her health exam in order to get her passport. Five days until we leave and still so much to see!
Friday, November 30, 2007
Day 8 - Return to Chang Sha
I am beginning to feel like I belong here. Of course I do, as Marg puts it, look like an Amazon amongst these women. When I walk down the street alone, people come up to me and measure themselves as discretely as they can, against me. It is not intimidating though. I feel quite safe and have found all of my interactions with the Chinese people to be pleasant.
Our drive back from Chen Zhou was considerably quicker than the drive there, even with the overturned cement truck on the highway. I guess I am getting used to the perma-smog and the shells of houses that people live in because as I gazed out the window during the four and a half hour drive I saw much more beauty than I saw before. There were people out working their tiny plots of land, cohabitating with the cattle and oxen. The rice paddies were often filled with white ducks and the odd pig and dog stood serenely. It was pastoral in a hazy sort of crowded way.
Upon return to Chang Sha I made a visit to the pharmacy with our guide in tow. I brought the medicine I needed to refill, but the drug was not in my interpreters lexicon and no amount of charades could explain it. We were just about to give up when the pharmacist brought out the Chinese version of the pharmacology handbook. Fortunately each drug was also spelled out in English and after much page flipping a persistence we found it. Smiles of relief were everywhere. It turned out that the drug must be prescribed by the hospital but after the determination to find it the pharmacist decided that since I was a foreigner he could give it to me anyway. Phew!
I then went on a walk alone down the streets of Chang Sha to look in shop windows and feel a part of daily life. The smells coming from the carts filled with "snacks" was mouth watering. Crossing the street was an adventure as pedestrians do not have right of way and no one stops at signals anyway. I did make it eventually. I went into a couple of book stores but was unable to find anything I wanted to buy. I did find a Chinese English book that explained common phrases like what to say if you walk in the ladies washroom by accident or if you bump into someone "Get out of my way - you jerk". I couldn't help but laugh, but decided to put the book down as I was attracting attention to myself. The thing that impressed me most about the bookstore was all of the people sitting everywhere reading, reading, reading. On my walk back I stopped into a couple of small shops to buy little things. The young shop keepers were delighted to practise their English on me. I was greatly relieved that some of the prices they quoted me were in fact, lost in translation!! Thank goodness for calculators.
We are off for another test of Szechwaun. I am hoping that both Marg and I fare better this time!!
Our drive back from Chen Zhou was considerably quicker than the drive there, even with the overturned cement truck on the highway. I guess I am getting used to the perma-smog and the shells of houses that people live in because as I gazed out the window during the four and a half hour drive I saw much more beauty than I saw before. There were people out working their tiny plots of land, cohabitating with the cattle and oxen. The rice paddies were often filled with white ducks and the odd pig and dog stood serenely. It was pastoral in a hazy sort of crowded way.
Upon return to Chang Sha I made a visit to the pharmacy with our guide in tow. I brought the medicine I needed to refill, but the drug was not in my interpreters lexicon and no amount of charades could explain it. We were just about to give up when the pharmacist brought out the Chinese version of the pharmacology handbook. Fortunately each drug was also spelled out in English and after much page flipping a persistence we found it. Smiles of relief were everywhere. It turned out that the drug must be prescribed by the hospital but after the determination to find it the pharmacist decided that since I was a foreigner he could give it to me anyway. Phew!
I then went on a walk alone down the streets of Chang Sha to look in shop windows and feel a part of daily life. The smells coming from the carts filled with "snacks" was mouth watering. Crossing the street was an adventure as pedestrians do not have right of way and no one stops at signals anyway. I did make it eventually. I went into a couple of book stores but was unable to find anything I wanted to buy. I did find a Chinese English book that explained common phrases like what to say if you walk in the ladies washroom by accident or if you bump into someone "Get out of my way - you jerk". I couldn't help but laugh, but decided to put the book down as I was attracting attention to myself. The thing that impressed me most about the bookstore was all of the people sitting everywhere reading, reading, reading. On my walk back I stopped into a couple of small shops to buy little things. The young shop keepers were delighted to practise their English on me. I was greatly relieved that some of the prices they quoted me were in fact, lost in translation!! Thank goodness for calculators.
We are off for another test of Szechwaun. I am hoping that both Marg and I fare better this time!!
Wednesday, November 28, 2007
Day 8 - Chen Zhou Orphanage
I woke later than usual this morning. I think that I have finally adjusted to the time change, but then it may be that I actually slept in a bed for the first time in eight days. The window from my room looks out on the central square. At 7:00am they were people running races around the circle, practising Tai Chi in the centre, exercising and sitting. A few minutes later the square was filled with soldiers all practising their precision marching. They painstakingly slowly lift there straight leg, pause in the air, slam it down and then repeat with the next leg. It was quite a sight. Today we are going to Sophie's orphanage.
She has put on her Chinese silk dress that I bought for her at the embroidery museum in Chang Sha. She looks like a miniature Geisha girl (wrong country I know). We drive slowly through moderately heavy traffic - clear sailing compared to all of our other drives. Our driver confidently drives up a steep narrow road with less than a hand's width of space on either side of our vehicle. Pedestrian dive into narrow alleys as we make our way up. He turns sharply and I hold my breath, but it was unnecessary as we have entered the courtyard of the orphanage. It is lovely filled with date palms and other sub-tropical plants waiting until spring to flower. The balconies around the courtyard are filled with Nannies.
Our visit was singularly wonderful. We were shown freely throughout the orphanage where we met many happy, playing children and their nannies. The ratio of Nanny to child looked to be about one to two or possibly one to three. There were special needs children but they were integrated with the "normal" children and were all engaged in some form of stimulation. Unlike the other orphanage we were allowed, no invited to take pictures and film everything. Sophie found the bed that she had slept in and was thrilled. The girls played with the children. It was a most positive experience and I found myself thinking about adopting a child from this orphanage as they were so clearly well loved and cared for.
After our tour and exchange of gifts we were taken to a lovely lake park for lunch by the directors and office staff. There was a steep bridge, easily 150 stairs high that the office boys cheerfully carried Marg up and over, not once but twice, so that we could see the beautiful park and lake on the other side. The girls and I braved the squat toilets out of desperation - actually we are becoming quite practised at it. And then, it was time for lunch.
The restaurant was tiny and basic. Our room had a Ma Jong table which we just had to try. Marg, Sophie, Isabelle and I sat around the table with a partnered Chinese teacher and began to play. Marg won the first game and I the second and our teachers laughed and shouted and full participated in the game. It was thrilling. The twelve of us were then squashed around a tiny table and treated to the most delicious food that I have ever tasted. Spicey duck, pork with Tarot, tongue numbingly hot green beans, chinese vegetable, and many other mouth watering dishes. The men drank chinese whisky and the women orange pop and tea. Both Marg and I tried the whisky which was fragrant with herbs. Tasty! Toasts were made and it was a thoroughly enjoyable and friendly experience. China may not be a pretty place but the people are wonderfully charming and excellent hosts.
Outside of the restaurant I went to buy some sugar cane for the girls but one of the men beat me to it. The old woman hacked off the course outside with a machete and deftly snapped in two for the girls. After a brief demonstration they were chewing and sucking the sweet juice all the way home. Now they rest and later we will walk through the city. We are the only "round eye, big noses" in town. I look forward to our next adventure.
She has put on her Chinese silk dress that I bought for her at the embroidery museum in Chang Sha. She looks like a miniature Geisha girl (wrong country I know). We drive slowly through moderately heavy traffic - clear sailing compared to all of our other drives. Our driver confidently drives up a steep narrow road with less than a hand's width of space on either side of our vehicle. Pedestrian dive into narrow alleys as we make our way up. He turns sharply and I hold my breath, but it was unnecessary as we have entered the courtyard of the orphanage. It is lovely filled with date palms and other sub-tropical plants waiting until spring to flower. The balconies around the courtyard are filled with Nannies.
Our visit was singularly wonderful. We were shown freely throughout the orphanage where we met many happy, playing children and their nannies. The ratio of Nanny to child looked to be about one to two or possibly one to three. There were special needs children but they were integrated with the "normal" children and were all engaged in some form of stimulation. Unlike the other orphanage we were allowed, no invited to take pictures and film everything. Sophie found the bed that she had slept in and was thrilled. The girls played with the children. It was a most positive experience and I found myself thinking about adopting a child from this orphanage as they were so clearly well loved and cared for.
After our tour and exchange of gifts we were taken to a lovely lake park for lunch by the directors and office staff. There was a steep bridge, easily 150 stairs high that the office boys cheerfully carried Marg up and over, not once but twice, so that we could see the beautiful park and lake on the other side. The girls and I braved the squat toilets out of desperation - actually we are becoming quite practised at it. And then, it was time for lunch.
The restaurant was tiny and basic. Our room had a Ma Jong table which we just had to try. Marg, Sophie, Isabelle and I sat around the table with a partnered Chinese teacher and began to play. Marg won the first game and I the second and our teachers laughed and shouted and full participated in the game. It was thrilling. The twelve of us were then squashed around a tiny table and treated to the most delicious food that I have ever tasted. Spicey duck, pork with Tarot, tongue numbingly hot green beans, chinese vegetable, and many other mouth watering dishes. The men drank chinese whisky and the women orange pop and tea. Both Marg and I tried the whisky which was fragrant with herbs. Tasty! Toasts were made and it was a thoroughly enjoyable and friendly experience. China may not be a pretty place but the people are wonderfully charming and excellent hosts.
Outside of the restaurant I went to buy some sugar cane for the girls but one of the men beat me to it. The old woman hacked off the course outside with a machete and deftly snapped in two for the girls. After a brief demonstration they were chewing and sucking the sweet juice all the way home. Now they rest and later we will walk through the city. We are the only "round eye, big noses" in town. I look forward to our next adventure.
Day 7 - Chen Zhou
Wednesday November 28, 2007
The drive to Chen Zhou was exciting. Our first task was to exit the city of Changsha, but it seemed that every road leading out of the city was blocked or closed. After an hour of fruitless attempts and driving through the mind numbing turtle pace of the crowded city streets our driver went back to the first road that exited the city and, fortunately, the blockade had been moved. We made it out on our way to what should have been a four hour trip. I had been told that this drive was lovely as it would wend its way through the countryside. I looked and looked for lovely but instead saw the depressing evidence of man’s folly. The impact of overpopulation and pollution was everywhere. The countryside was crowded with old rectangular brick buildings with broken or non existent windows, ruined roofs and the look of emptiness. But, on closer inspection, it was clear that people were living in these buildings as there were clothes lines hanging from the remnants of the balconies and fires burning outside.
There were farmed fields, rice paddies and terraced agriculture. I did see the odd Ox and a few people working the fields. Mostly the fields were being burnt, the acrid smoke adding to the imposing smog that stretched from city to city. I kept waiting as the hours stretched by for the pretty vision that had been described to me. The fields themselves were tiny, no more than a large back yard in a wealthy Toronto neighbourhood. They were neat and well irrigated and green things were growing in them. But countryside? It must have been pretty in the past.
Driving on the highways from Chang Sha, through Zhu Zhou and to Chang Zhou is an exercise in vehicular chicken. Our driver must have nerves of steel as he bullied his way along the two lane highway three abreast with heavy trucks. We passed trucks carrying pigs, goats, donkeys and one with tiny cages packed ten high and about twenty long. At first I couldn’t figure out what the furry things were in these cages, assuming they were some exotic variety of goats. When we later passed a similar stock truck, I took a closer look and realized that eachcage contained a dog destined for the dinner table. We also passed buses that had beds instead of seats. Some of these buses drive for nineteen hours or more. The buses were packed with mothers and children sharing the tiny beds as well as laborers and other travelers. They looked curiously at us in our bus as we tried to get a picture of this unfamiliar sight. What a good idea! We need sleeping busses in Canada.
Before we began our journey this morning we started the day at a popular park and pavilion. It was really fun to see all the people enjoying themselves. Some people were practicing their ballroom dancing, others playing checkers, some performing in musical groups and children were playing with a variety of neat toys that the girls all had an opportunity to try. There were also men making water calligraphy on the sidewalk and they were keen to teach the girls. The people there were as curious about us as we were about them and soon we had crowds of people laughing and smiling as we all tried each other’s activity. After the park it was off to the temple to burn Joss sticks and make a wish. There were 500 Buddhas there and lots of people. I loved the ponds full of Koi and turtles. I can imagine that it is quite pretty in the spring. As it is December the leaves are looking a bit limp and there are few flowers blooming in the single digit weather.
We did make it to Chen Zhou after five and half hours. The city itself is full of lights and seems much more modern and tidy than the other cities we have been to. It is late now so exploring will have to wait until tomorrow. Good night from Chen Zhou.
The drive to Chen Zhou was exciting. Our first task was to exit the city of Changsha, but it seemed that every road leading out of the city was blocked or closed. After an hour of fruitless attempts and driving through the mind numbing turtle pace of the crowded city streets our driver went back to the first road that exited the city and, fortunately, the blockade had been moved. We made it out on our way to what should have been a four hour trip. I had been told that this drive was lovely as it would wend its way through the countryside. I looked and looked for lovely but instead saw the depressing evidence of man’s folly. The impact of overpopulation and pollution was everywhere. The countryside was crowded with old rectangular brick buildings with broken or non existent windows, ruined roofs and the look of emptiness. But, on closer inspection, it was clear that people were living in these buildings as there were clothes lines hanging from the remnants of the balconies and fires burning outside.
There were farmed fields, rice paddies and terraced agriculture. I did see the odd Ox and a few people working the fields. Mostly the fields were being burnt, the acrid smoke adding to the imposing smog that stretched from city to city. I kept waiting as the hours stretched by for the pretty vision that had been described to me. The fields themselves were tiny, no more than a large back yard in a wealthy Toronto neighbourhood. They were neat and well irrigated and green things were growing in them. But countryside? It must have been pretty in the past.
Driving on the highways from Chang Sha, through Zhu Zhou and to Chang Zhou is an exercise in vehicular chicken. Our driver must have nerves of steel as he bullied his way along the two lane highway three abreast with heavy trucks. We passed trucks carrying pigs, goats, donkeys and one with tiny cages packed ten high and about twenty long. At first I couldn’t figure out what the furry things were in these cages, assuming they were some exotic variety of goats. When we later passed a similar stock truck, I took a closer look and realized that eachcage contained a dog destined for the dinner table. We also passed buses that had beds instead of seats. Some of these buses drive for nineteen hours or more. The buses were packed with mothers and children sharing the tiny beds as well as laborers and other travelers. They looked curiously at us in our bus as we tried to get a picture of this unfamiliar sight. What a good idea! We need sleeping busses in Canada.
Before we began our journey this morning we started the day at a popular park and pavilion. It was really fun to see all the people enjoying themselves. Some people were practicing their ballroom dancing, others playing checkers, some performing in musical groups and children were playing with a variety of neat toys that the girls all had an opportunity to try. There were also men making water calligraphy on the sidewalk and they were keen to teach the girls. The people there were as curious about us as we were about them and soon we had crowds of people laughing and smiling as we all tried each other’s activity. After the park it was off to the temple to burn Joss sticks and make a wish. There were 500 Buddhas there and lots of people. I loved the ponds full of Koi and turtles. I can imagine that it is quite pretty in the spring. As it is December the leaves are looking a bit limp and there are few flowers blooming in the single digit weather.
We did make it to Chen Zhou after five and half hours. The city itself is full of lights and seems much more modern and tidy than the other cities we have been to. It is late now so exploring will have to wait until tomorrow. Good night from Chen Zhou.
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